1 Переведите текст:
BRAND NEW WORLD
Rose Marie Bravo, chief executive of Burberry, foresees exciting times for –and challenging ones for brands
One thing is certain: nurturing and maintaining the power of a brand will become more complex. There will be competition and no shortage of innovation. The truism that applying one company’s formula another brand is never a guarantee of success, will take one a new resonance. In the coming years we will see breakthrough models being created from new entrants and some unexpected sources.
The competition for consumers’ attention and a share of their spending will become ever fiercer as products proliferate exponentially and channels of distribution broaden. Brands nowadays think they can become all things to all people. “Sticking to your knitting” is not the order of the day as we see shoemakers moving into apparel, luggage-makers venturing into jewellery, menswear companies going into womenswear, athletic-wear companies moving into accessories, couturiers designing for mass outlets and pop stars becoming designers.
This massive blurring of boundaries, and the amount of choice available to consumers, will make it even more difficult for a company’s voice be heard. Brands will have to take more risks in product innovation and marketing methods to capture the customer’s attention. The art of brand management will change radically.
More risks will be taken in selecting managers. There will be significant changes in the management of brands. The training of managers or the talent pool they come from will be different. Companies will and should think beyond usual suspects when they look to changing management. We will see more appointments like that of Paul Pressler at Cap and Robert Polet at Gucci. A very steady hand must be in place to steer the brand ship. The whole concept of focus take on a new meaning.
Consumers have undergone a revolution in their philosophy of dressing. The concept of “masstige” (mixing mass labels with prestige) has validated shopping in high-street stores, online and in flea markets in addition to couture boutiques and speciality stores. Trends will continue to be influenced by what famous people are of sea wearing, yet in new ways as celebrities encourage the art of individual style – where everything is personalised and customized. It is cool to mix vintage with luxury, with high-street purchases – it is all in the mix. Wearing a uniform or dressing from head to toe in one designer will become less prevalent as style becomes even more defined by the ability to create your own look.
In the coming year, I see more brands linking with other brands and flirting with new concepts. Licensing a brand has undergone its ‘lawn evolution’ in the past three decades: from a name licensing every conceivable product to licensing being banned from many luxury cultures. There will be a return to licensing, but in a new way – an unexpected coupling of names like Stella Mc Cartney with Adidas, Bulgari with Marriott, Burberry with Dr Scholl’s.
All of this “cross-dressing” and mixing of brands will change the shopping experience. In the 1990s we prided ourselves on the exact replication and perfect execution of a concept across retail, wholesale, direct mail and other channels. Today and in the future, we are intrigued by various iterations of a concept – Brands will force change in store design and even product offering by location as we look to pre-empt customers’ ennui from seeing the same thing in London, New York and Tokyo. Prada was in the forefront of this wits brave new SoHo store in New York – a total departure replete with reproduced vintage items.....